Breton soul and Brescian flavors come together perfectly in the kitchen of chef Philippe Léveillé. From Miramonti l’altro, located a few kilometers outside Brescia, haute cuisine blends with more authentic local tradition and the most obvious symbol is the famous cheese cart of Brescian cheesemakers. A cuisine of substance with two Michelin stars (as I write to you) that is worth tasting. Excellent pairing with lambrusco sparkling wine by Cantine della Volta. A pleasant and crackling start: Cylinder of sea seal and smoked salmon, Parmesan tartlet and cream of broad beans and pecorino, Fagottino with meat tartare and truffle flake . Risotto alla Milanese decomposed, that is changed in consistency with crispy rice and marrow on the bottom: a top dish! Exquisite and fun! Grilled eggplant ravioli, Fatulì and macadamia (predominant smoked flavor) . Risotto with mushrooms and sweet mountain cheeses: it is served directly on the plate at the table, tasty, delicious but also a bit challenging in terms of lack of lightness Lacquered octopus and potato cream cooked with ashes: also in this case it lacks a little freshness, the sauce and the creaminess in general of the dish make it a bit heavy . Grilled milk piglet, hazelnut cream and Cassis Frogs with butter, garlic and parsley, simple but tasty.
I liked them, really a lot, although I was always hesitant to order them when I found them on a menu. However, if you think about it, in some areas of Italy (especially those cultivated with rice from Piedmont, Veneto, Lombardy and Emilia) they have been an important source of livelihood even for the poorest families in which they often replaced fish on the tables (famous in Brescia and Emilia the risotto with frogs, whose original recipe was deposited in 2007 at the Chamber of Commerce of Bologna by the Italian Academy of Cuisine). Their meat is characteristically very delicate and therefore becomes essential in the kitchen that it is enhanced with appropriate cooking methods and combinations / condiments that enhance the taste. In the chef's version, butter, garlic and parsley are able to enhance in (apparent) simplicity without overpowering the refined taste of the meat. Closure with revisited Greek salad: Vesuvius tomato, feta cheese in emulsion and liquid and frozen cucumber
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