Materia, Cernobbio

​I had read very interesting things about the young Chef Davide Caranchini, for example that he spent a period at the famous Noma in Copenhagen (where I hope soon to be able to visit soon) and the strong contrasts that characterize his kitchen, or the use of peculiar raw materials peculiar like berries and roots and the recent recognition of its first Michelin star.
The place is small and basic, a bit in Nordic style actually; I decide to sit in the smaller room next to the main one where you can stay apart from the most of the clientele.
I can't venture to choose the experimentation menu and so I opt for the more with 'classic' dishes in order to start knowing the Chef's hand.
In the classic tasting path you start with the Carpione trout with puffed rice, excellent acidity and wonderful taste. I greatly appreciated the dichotomy 'crunchiness' (of puffed rice) and ' softness ' of the trout.

​The next is a dish that has really left me open-mouthed and I will hardly forget, the grilled salad: black cabbage, curly cabbage, celery turnip, Jerusalem artichoke, pumpkin seeds, black truffle and cream of milk. 
There is an incredible balance, bitter and acidity, not excessive but they make this vegetarian dish very particular, fine and not tiring even if you’d eat another 10 portions, really amazing.

The first dish consists of a carnaroli risotto 'Riserva San maximus' with celery turnip, Sansho pepper and trout roe; I have to confess that the scent of pepper Sansho is something literally intoxfying, it is a bouquet of flowers with an intense citrus scent of cedar and bergamot, I could not stop smelling my dish so much that I risked to cool the risotto! I really like this combination with oriental products and their insertion so harmonious in these dishes.

​Among the first courses of the menu 'Green Power' I had the pleasure to taste the tortelli of shallots and bitter herbs with cream and karkadè: beautiful and extremely delicate and balanced between the creaminess of cream and bitter herbs.

​Also the second dish has an oriental twist: pork belly with plums and plum compote and shiso which is a kind of Japanese basil.

But the top of the news for me has come last, before the dessert: Maitake and fir. It is a peculiar and delicious mushroom originating in Japan, where it has been used in the table for centuries, here it is presented with this peculiar form and a particularly bitter taste; excellent combination with a fir sauce that can perfectly balance the intense flavor of the Maitake.

​Finally the dessert that has the fantastic: ‘Purity’. 
In order in the plate hazelnut, chocolate and coffee in three different consistencies, respectively: hazelnut ice cream, chocolate mousse and coffee waffle. The substances in question are distilled in water and then assembled in the firm consistency and are deprived of color to further mislead the visual-perceptual link that, so confused, is pleasantly surprised.

​Wonderful experience, I just wanna go back already!